When the last days of December arrive, the sky over Kashmir becomes engulfed by dark grey clouds. It is the time when the “Chillai-Kalan,” the harshest winter spell, takes full control over the valley. Known as the king of winters, Chillai-Kalan announces its most intense days from December 21 to January 31. This is the season when the cold reaches its peak, water begins to freeze, rivers and lakes don their blanket of ice, and the people of the valley gather around their wooden “Bukhari” stoves for warmth.
The most prominent feature of Chillai-Kalan is the severe cold and snowfall. Temperatures can drop as low as -6 to -12 degrees Celsius. Even if the sun peeks out during the day, its rays can hardly make a dent in the cold. The nights become long and bitterly cold. Water pipes freeze, and thick layers of snow sparkle across paths, fields, and rooftops. The mountains appear as if draped in white blankets.
In this season, water also becomes helpless. A layer of ice forms over streams, springs, and lakes. The famous Dal Lake turns into a wonderland for tourists. Children slide across the frozen surface, while the youth perform tricks on the ice. In villages, gathering water becomes a struggle, and people have to melt snow early in the morning to meet their water needs.
While Chillai-Kalan presents a dreamy landscape for tourists, for the locals, it is no less than a tough trial. For tourists, it is a “Winter Wonderland,” where they get to witness snowfall, frozen lakes, and play on the snow-covered peaks of mountains. Whether it’s skiing in Gulmarg or walking on the snow-covered floor of Pahalgam valleys, tourists capture every moment of these views on camera.
On the other hand, locals face several daily challenges. Power outages become common, and people have to melt snow for drinking water. Provisions for food need to be gathered, as roads are often blocked due to heavy snowfall. The prices of wood and coal also rise because these are the primary sources of heat during this season.
Chillai-Kalan is not only a season of cold but also an integral part of Kashmiri culture. During this time, Kashmiris enjoy their traditional dishes, like “Harisah.” In the morning, people eat warm Harisah with bread, which is considered a perfect meal to combat the cold. People use “Kangri,” a traditional earthen firepot, and sit around it to share the stories of their day.
In the evening, Kashmiri tea, known as “Noon Chai” or “Qehwa,” becomes a ritual. The aroma and taste of Qehwa warm the heart and mind in the chilly air. This is the season when people come closer to each other, as it becomes difficult to go out. Family members sit together, gossip, and listen to old tales.
Chillai-Kalan has also been a favorite subject in Kashmiri literature, poetry, and painting. Poets have used snowfall as metaphors for love and separation. The white blanket of snow is seen as purity, the cold as indifference, and the silent snowfall as a symbol of sadness. The falling snowflakes are often referred to in poetry as “pearls of the sky” or “heavenly flowers.” The way the hardship of Chillai-Kalan and the beauty of the valley have been portrayed in Kashmiri literature deeply touches the hearts of readers.
Chillai-Kalan also teaches us how powerful nature is. Man may have set foot on the moon, but he is still helpless in the face of Chillai-Kalan. Even grand plans fail before the power of this season. Airports are shut, roads are blocked, and people have to remain confined to their homes.
Chillai-Kalan is an aspect of Kashmiri life that everyone wants to experience, whether they are locals or tourists. While this season makes life difficult, it also ignites hope and love in the hearts of people. It reminds us that after every snowfall, spring comes; after every hardship, ease follows. Chillai-Kalan brings with it stories that will be remembered for years to come. The people of Kashmir have come to understand the temperament of this winter king. They know that this hardship is temporary and soon, they will welcome the soft breezes of spring. This hope is the most beautiful reality of Chillai-Kalan.
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