Editorial: “Memories in State Custody on Our Own Land” by Samia Batool

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Our beautiful memories begin in the captivating region of Mahmoodgali in Pakistani-administered Kashmir. My friends and I planned to celebrate Eid closer to nature, creating unforgettable memories.

We chose the area of Forward Kahuta because it offers several famous and picturesque tourist spots in one journey. Among them is a famous rock (Malyari Rock), which is situated high above deep ravines, and the Neel Fairy Lake, a unique and magnificent masterpiece of nature.

We waited for our friends in Mahmoodgali, enjoyed a meal, and sipped hot tea in the cool weather. The enchanting views of Pir Panjal from the hotel windows kept drawing our attention. The snow-capped peaks and budding new leaves on the trees added a refreshing feel. When our friends arrived, we got into the vehicle and headed to our next destination. Our route passed through the Kahuta and Haveli regions, climbing up the mountains. Along the way, we introduced ourselves, shared jokes, and created lively memories as we journeyed toward our camping site. Equipped with essential gear, we set off.

Kahuta is a large district comprising several areas, each with its own unique culture. Some regions speak pure Kashmiri, while others speak Gojri. The people remain connected to their ancestral traditions and culture. Our first stop was the beautiful area of Gagdar, a small valley surrounded by high mountains and a straight road leading to our next destination. Leaving Gagdar, we arrived at the small, bustling market of Plangi, where essential goods are available. From here, the journey to Halan began. Throughout the trip, water accompanied us, sometimes flowing close to the road, other times farther away, but never out of sight. Deep ravines, winding roads, towering trees, and soft grass, along with simple folks and roaming livestock, filled our senses with the beauty of nature.

At one point, a small waterfall cascades onto the road, creating an exhilarating moment for travelers as the water splashes on their vehicles, turning their excitement into joyful shouts. This path led us to the Halan waterfall, which flows majestically beside a high, small iron bridge. The cliff between the bridge and the waterfall keeps travelers dry, while the path leading to the cliff remains wet with the spray from the cascading water. The milky white waterfall, when it hits the ground, sends droplets far and wide, announcing its presence. During summers, travelers happily approach it, while in winters, the cold becomes unbearable, forcing them to admire the beautiful sight from a distance. We took pictures by the waterfall and moved on.

Ten minutes’ drive from the waterfall, we decided to camp in a public park. This place seemed like a gift from nature. The water flowed by with a steady rhythm, unconcerned with anything else, while the mountainous backdrop made it a focal point for visitors. In the delightful evening, we set up our tents, gathered wood, and lit a bonfire. The moon shone down on us, sharing in our experiences. Stones sparkling in the water appeared like precious jewels, and the stars in the sky resembled a platter of pearls. We prepared dinner, but our joy turned to disappointment when the Pakistani army arrived, deeming our stay on our own land a crime. The valley, the ravines, the rocks, the grass—all ours, yet not. Staying close to the Line of Control on our land is considered a crime.

Some of our friends were members of the Jammu Kashmir National Students Federation. The Pakistani army strictly ordered us to dismantle our camp. We requested time to cook our meal, but the army was adamant about not letting us stay. They confiscated our identity cards, inspected our belongings for an hour, and retained our IDs under the pretext of checking our data. Another camp nearby remained undisturbed by the army. We had no choice but to leave, finding shelter in two shabby hotel rooms. After dinner and reflecting on the sorrows of our land, we fell asleep, as the next day promised a new destination. The sun shone brightly the next morning, birds and other creatures were awake, and we prepared for our next journey, a long hike up the mountains to a famous rock perched high above. After parking our vehicle in a safe place, we set off with minimal supplies.

Our team of eight was strong and soon the rough road ended, leading to a climb up the mountain. The stunning views encouraged us to keep going. Along the way, we met a girl who shared that due to a lack of facilities, her family moved to Rawalpindi, where they received an education. Seeing the struggle of people living in such beauty to meet basic needs was heart-wrenching. People carried sacks of grains from miles away, crossing difficult paths to reach their homes and meet their daily needs.

Amara invited us to her home and treated us to tea and refreshments. Her family encouraged us and guided us on our way. After two hours of hiking, we reached the mountain where our destination lay. The Malyari Rock, perched high above dangerous ravines, offered breathtaking views. Travelers took pictures atop this rock, which was as beautiful as it was perilous. The weather on mountains changes quickly; the bright sun turned into rain, soaking us with heavy droplets. But soon the rain stopped, and the sun reappeared. We took pictures and enjoyed the surrounding views, then headed back. Descending was easier, and we quickly reached our vehicle.

We then set off for Neel Fairy Lake, planning to camp there, but the weather didn’t cooperate. A storm forced us to stop at Bring Ban, a beautiful village where the locals were extremely hospitable. They provided us with a spacious, clean hall filled with bedding. Their hospitality and kindness were unmatched. After dinner, exhausted from walking, we quickly fell asleep.

The village’s beautiful morning greeted us with a warm breakfast prepared especially for us. We packed our essentials, left the rest in the hall, and headed towards the lake. Two local girls accompanied us to ensure we didn’t face any difficulties. Along the way, we saw various colored stones and felt the cool breeze. One spot had water dripping from leaves, a fascinating sight. Enjoying the scenic views, we continued our ascent.

The girls shared their challenges, including the lack of a proper road and the struggle to transport essentials. They mentioned that the only school in the area was up to the eighth grade, and most girls couldn’t study beyond that. We assured them we’d convey their issues to the authorities. Engaging in conversation, we reached their homes, simple yet beautiful structures made of mud and wood, serving as summer shelters for livestock and a combined kitchen and bedroom for people.

The girls treated us to tea, for which we were very grateful. After tea, we continued towards the lake, the sky partly covered with light clouds. As we climbed, we reached a meadow filled with beautiful purple flowers, encouraging us to tread carefully. Finally, after a long journey, the lake appeared before us, seemingly crafted meticulously by nature. Nestled between mountains, with the sky and scattered clouds reflected in its waters, the lake offered a mesmerizing view. Snow-covered peaks on the far side of the lake seemed to smile at us.

However, before we could fully take in the scenery, the clouds covered the sky, and hail began to fall. We quickly took shelter beneath a cliff, the sudden cold becoming unbearable. The hail turned the peaks white, and the stones in the lake looked like musical notes being played. We took some photos and, after a brief stay, started our journey back home. We carried with us respect and love for the locals who made our journey special, gave us their time, and showed us hospitality.

Sitting in my room today, writing this, those scenes refresh my soul and bring a smile to my face as I recall the beautiful moments.

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