Until the revolution of 1947, the land of Haveli was a cradle of knowledge and learning, with its intellectual legacy recognized throughout history. Its fertile soil gave birth to eminent literary figures like Chiragh Hassan Hasrat, a towering figure in literature. Along with his literary contributions, his brothers were also poets in their own right. In addition to them, renowned authors such as Krishan Chander emerged from Haveli, becoming world-famous storytellers.
The land also nurtured other significant writers such as Mahinder Nath and Thakur Panchhi. While Chiragh Hassan Hasrat reached international recognition through his writing and journalism, many other poets such as Abdul Qadir Khazein, Farzand Ali Yas Bukhari, Tahseen Jafari, Sayed Ahmad Dard, Imam Din Hudhud, Sarwan Nath Aftab, Zia ul Hassan Zia, and Sajjad ul Hassan Sajjad also contributed to keeping the intellectual spirit of Haveli alive.
Many friends and acquaintances often inquire about the origin of the name “Haveli.” As per our knowledge, Poonch city had four tehsils: Haveli, Mendhar, Bagh, and Sudhnuti. Haveli was the central tehsil, which also included the area of Degwar Malyalian—a region that lies across the Line of Control.
The name “Haveli” is tied to the legacy of a Muslim minister named Mian Nizam Din from the region of Degwar Malyalian, who was associated with the Dogra court. A grand and magnificent building was constructed in his name, alongside a beautiful mosque. The name of this historic building was later used to name the central tehsil of Poonch as “Haveli.” In earlier times, large buildings were referred to as “Haveli,” and after Mian Nizam Din’s death, the Dogra rulers established the Vijay State High School in this very historic structure.
Haveli’s most picturesque regions lie on the side of the Line of Control, though there are numerous tourist destinations on this side as well, such as Lsdhna, Mahmood Gali, Sheero Dhara, Manji Shaheed, Aliabad, Neelfari, Main Sir, Khatanar, Sari, Gzan, Halan, Kacharban, and Sankh—all of which boast breathtaking scenic beauty. These areas, with their endless emerald fields and vibrant natural landscapes, mesmerize visitors with their allure.
Apart from its fame for various minerals and crops, Haveli is renowned worldwide due to the Haji Pir Pass. This pass is one of the largest and most famous mountain passes in the world, having been used for centuries for trade, migration, warfare, and other forms of travel. During the British era, a road was constructed through this famous historical pass, which holds particular significance. The road, built in 1920, connects the occupied region of Poonch to the town of Uri and Srinagar. The Haji Pir Pass was also traversed by the Daraoar, Koru, and Pandou caravans. The Buddhist caravans left their mark here, and Emperor Ashoka’s flags fluttered across this route. In the 16th century, the Mughal Emperor Akbar’s forces passed through this pass as well.
This road, which connects Poonch city to Srinagar, is a shorter route compared to the Jammu road. Built a century ago, it was an engineering marvel of its time. The road’s grading and surveying were done in such a way that even horse-drawn carriages could easily navigate it. Despite being a rough road, buses operated on it until 1947.
The historical road stretches from the city of Poonch, through the villages of Degwar Tirwaan (in Pakistan-administered Kashmir), alongside the Nullah Betar, and passing through Kahota, Halan North, Aliabad, and the Haji Pir Pass, finally entering Uri in occupied Kashmir. The road is lined with winding streams, lush valleys, fields, forests, and mountains, providing a breathtaking view.
The surroundings of this road are home to various historical landmarks, each with its own unique significance. Among these are the Saraye Aliabad, Rani Bagh, Shikar Gah Loi Dandi, and Aliabad’s Rakh, Haji Pir Pass, and Noori Chham. Several springs and wells were built in these places, which, although weathered by time, still echo the Mughal and Sikh periods. These types of wells and springs can be found all over Haveli, particularly at Kahota (Chinar), Panj Pir, Hotar, Solai, Kala Mula, and Aliabad.
For centuries, various caravans have passed through the Haji Pir Pass. One popular tradition suggests that when Emperor Jalaluddin Akbar’s army stopped at the Saraye Aliabad, they used about two and a half maunds (unit of weight) of hing for the army’s food. Some records even mention up to nine maunds of hing, highlighting the large size of the army and the vastness of the Saraye.
The history of Akbar’s army and its stay is still etched into a large stone nearby, known as Lakhi Trar, where a plaque carved in Persian still remains, albeit with faded writing. Near the Saraye, Maharaja Hari Singh of Jammu and Kashmir built a beautiful garden for his beloved wife in the 19th century. The garden, known as Rani Bagh, is still partially intact and draws visitors from far and wide.
Later, during the British period, a large, beautiful rest house (Dak Bungalow) was built in Aliabad, but unfortunately, little trace of it remains today.
This historic road from Poonch to Uri and Srinagar encapsulates centuries of history. Numerous saints, scholars, Sikhs, kings, and leaders have traveled this path. Even Indira Gandhi visited the Haji Pir Pass during her time, and it is here that she withdrew her forces as per the Tashkent Agreement. Leaders like Sheikh Abdullah and Syed Ataullah Shah Bukhari also made their way here.
At the Haji Pir point lies the tomb of a revered saint, Haji Syed Abdullah Shah Bukhari. His original name was Syed Abdullah Shah, and his father’s name was Alhaj Imam Din Bukhari. He hailed from the Naqshbandi Sufi order, and his family migrated from Bukhara to Kashmir. His father’s tomb is in the town of Ziarat near Kabul. A local legend mentions that the saint had four brothers and a sister, all of whom lived in the region. Today, the marks of these spiritual figures remain, with places like Baba Haji Pir, Sar Pir, Neza Pir, Toli Pir, and Hamshera Pir Kanti bearing their names.
Haveli’s natural beauty attracted many spiritual personalities. The mystic Makhdoom Jahaniyan held several sittings in Haveli, and many poets, writers, and short-story authors have traveled to the far-off villages and glens of Haveli to create their masterpieces. Krishan Chander wrote several famous short stories based on the places such as Chanjal, Aliabad, Haji Pir, Main Sir, and Gzan Dhoke. The remains of the ancient Buddhist university at Bathan Halan can still be seen today.
However, the 1947 revolution plunged Haveli into a state of backwardness, pushing it to the fringes of history. The Line of Control greatly diminished the importance and beauty of this historic road. The once bustling and vibrant route, which had witnessed the grandeur of emperors and famous personalities, now lies abandoned and deteriorating for the past fifty years. Though in recent years efforts have been made to make the road usable again, the stretch beyond Sundar Mar towards Khawja Bandi is in a terrible condition. Many other historical sites in Haveli (except Rani Bagh) are rapidly vanishing. The Haji Pir Pass has almost faded from public consciousness. Rich forests, precious herbs, rare wildlife, and valuable timber are also disappearing at an alarming rate.
If this trend continues, future generations will be unable to witness these historical landmarks, and the memories of our ancestors will fade into mere fairy tales.
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