Written by Muntazir Ayoub: After leaving the office at night, while friends were sitting together, one of them put his hand on Dakhti’s shoulder and said:
“Office work is tiring, why not go on a tour of Gilgit Baltistan?”
The three of us looked at each other’s faces and decided to give ourselves some time. What happened next was that we finalized the plan, and after a few days, we reached the bus station and booked the tickets for the next day to go to Rawalpindi. We quickly packed our things at home, and thus we three friends went on a trip to Gilgit-Baltistan, the most beautiful place in Pakistan. They say that impromptu plans are always the best, and that’s exactly what happened to us.
We started our journey by bus from Karachi to Rawalpindi. After a long journey of 18 hours, we reached Pir Wadhai, the biggest bus station in Rawalpindi. This is the base from where vehicles leave for different areas of the country, including Gilgit-Baltistan. We also booked our vehicle from here to Skardu in Gilgit-Baltistan. We felt hungry and saw that there was still some time before the bus left, so we sat in a hotel near the bus stand.
When we looked at the menu pasted on the wall of the hotel, our appetite grew. Even before reaching Skardu, local salted tea called ‘Piocha’ in the Balti language and Balti paratha ‘Azooq’ were available at this hotel in Rawalpindi.
Piocha is made like Kashmiri tea but with added salt and desi ghee. This tea can be drunk on its own, but most people of Baltistan eat kulcha, roti, or azooq with it. Local people of Baltistan also call it proverbially ‘Balti Sharaab’ because after drinking it, you might like it so much that you could get addicted to it.
Azooq is also considered one of the foods deeply associated with Balti culture. This paratha is made in a traditional desi style. Yogurt, desi ghee, and eggs are added to the flour, which is then kneaded into dough. It is then shaped and fried in oil until it becomes slightly crispy.
After a few minutes of waiting, our order arrived. We ate pieces of azooq dipped in tea in the local style. Well-fed, we boarded the car for our departure to Skardu.
Let us tell you one thing: due to security reasons, most public transport heading to Skardu and Gilgit leaves Rawalpindi at 4 PM together. These measures were implemented after past incidents of terrorism. Although these routes are now safe and peaceful, the government still exercises caution. At certain places, vehicles are allowed to pass only at specific times, and during these times, the police, army, FC, and GB scouts patrol the various routes to prevent any untoward incidents.
As soon as the car reached Hazara Motorway, we suddenly felt a change in the weather, and cold winds began to blow. Although the distance from Rawalpindi to Skardu is 638 km, the journey takes a long time due to bad roads. Tourists mostly take the route through Naran Kaghan to enjoy the beautiful views of the valley.
From Naran Kaghan Valley to Skardu, the Babusar Top route is usually taken. However, Babusar Top is closed for several months in winter, forcing vehicles to take the Diamer Bhasha Dam route. Of these two routes, the Babusar Top route is relatively shorter, reducing the journey by 4 to 5 hours. Our bus also took the Babusar Top route.
After covering a long distance, we reached the Jaglot Skardu Road, where the sight of distant waterfalls gave us distinct pleasure. After a little more journey, we arrived at Sattak Nala, where the Skardu range begins. This area is also known as ‘Ronda’. The water of Sattak Nala flows rapidly from the mountains and joins the Indus River. There are hotels on both sides of Sattak Nala, and one of the special features of these hotels is a unique type of broth and bread that attracts many people to stop and eat.
We also asked our driver to stop the car and sat down to eat soup and bread. This broth is served in a large steel bowl with warm roti. It was delightful to break the whole bread into the broth and then eat it.
After eating, we continued our journey, but shortly after, we were stopped at a police checkpoint. The purpose of stopping the vehicle was to check it thoroughly and take down the information of the people in the vehicle. This ensures that if there is an unfortunate accident during the excursion in the hilly areas, the police will know how many tourists have entered the city.
After the police check, we traveled for a few more minutes and entered Skardu city. Upon reaching there, some friends warmly welcomed us. We went with them to their house where we were staying. Exhausted from the journey, we ate and then immediately went to sleep.
We woke up early in the morning, had our breakfast, and left for Kachura as per our schedule. About 19 km from Skardu city, Kachura is easily accessible by public transport and other rides, including private vehicles. After about half an hour, we entered the Kachura precincts, and our first stop was the Shangri-La Resort located in Kachura, also known as Lower Kachura Lake.
The Shangri-La Resort was built in 1983 and was founded by Brigadier (Retired) Muhammad Aslam Khan. Speaking of the beauty of this area, there is a heart-shaped lake at the center of the resort, surrounded by hotels, lush gardens, and beautiful mountains.
Shangri-La in Skardu was the first resort built specifically for tourists, attracting a large number of domestic and foreign visitors. One of its unique features is the presence of a ship on the premises, which has been converted into a hotel. This ship has an interesting history—it was originally an Orient Skyliner plane DC-3 that made an emergency landing on the sandy banks of the Indus River in Skardu due to technical issues. Fortunately, all passengers on board were safe, but the plane remained in the same spot for a long time.
Brigadier Aslam, recognizing the potential of the plane, contacted Civil Aviation authorities about purchasing it. Initially hesitant, they eventually agreed to sell the ship to Brigadier Aslam. With the help of local people, the ship was transported and docked near Shangri-La Lake. Initially, before the establishment of Shangri-La Resort, Brigadier Aslam used it as his private residence for family vacations. However, as the resort was developed, the ship was incorporated into it, offering a unique accommodation option for tourists to enjoy.
We also arrived at Shangri-La Resort and then visited the lake. After spending some time there, we headed towards the upper lake of Kachura and boarded our vehicle. Unfortunately, the bridge leading to the upper reaches of Kachura was under repair. So, we parked our car and decided to walk. We strolled through Kachora village until we reached the lake.
It’s known that water accumulates in this lake through various springs. During winter, the lake freezes, while in summer, its water becomes warm. Despite the risks—local stories tell of people losing their lives while bathing in this lake—visitors still don’t miss an opportunity to take a dip.
There is also a speedboat booking facility available for tourists, allowing them to take a tour of the lake. The reflection of the mountains is prominently visible in the blue water of this lake. The water is so transparent that the surface of the earth can be seen beneath it. Despite its calm appearance, locals say that the quieter the water, the more dangerous it can be.
Fishing is also an option in this lake, and the restaurant offers various dishes featuring trout fish for food lovers. We enjoyed the lovely weather and the beauty of the place while indulging in tea and biscuits. Afterward, we made our way back, cherishing the memories of our time spent at the serene Kachura Lake.
After returning, we planned to visit Sadpara Dam and Deosai Lake the next day, which is located at a height of about 14 thousand feet above the ground. This place is often referred to as the “roof of the world.” In the next episode, we’ll take you to Sadpara and Deosai, where the stunning views of nature will captivate your heart. Stay tuned for the next adventure!
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