The states of Jammu and Kashmir represent one of the most geopolitically sensitive and culturally rich regions in South Asia. Nestled in the Himalayas and Karakoram ranges, this former princely state has been a flashpoint between India and Pakistan since the Partition of 1947, and its territories are administered separately by both nations today. With stunning landscapes, diverse cultures, and complex histories, understanding the administrative and geopolitical divisions of Jammu and Kashmir is crucial for anyone seeking a deeper insight into South Asian affairs.
In this editorial, we explore all parts of the historical princely state — Indian-administered Jammu and Kashmir and Ladakh, as well as Pakistani-administered Azad Jammu and Kashmir (AJK) and Gilgit-Baltistan (GB) — to present a clear, balanced, and factual picture for our global readership.
Historical Context of the Princely State of Jammu and Kashmir
Before its division, Jammu and Kashmir was a princely state ruled by Maharaja Hari Singh under the British Raj. The region was one of the largest princely states in British India and was known for its cultural plurality, with Muslims, Hindus, Buddhists, and Sikhs living across its mountainous terrain.
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In 1947, when British India was partitioned into India and Pakistan, the Maharaja initially sought to remain independent. However, following an invasion by tribal militias from Pakistan, the ruler signed the Instrument of Accession to India, triggering the first Indo-Pak war and leading to the de facto division of the region. That division remains a point of contention and conflict today.
States of Jammu and Kashmir Today
1. Jammu (Indian-Administered)
Capital: Jammu (Winter Capital of UT of Jammu and Kashmir)
Major Cities: Jammu, Udhampur, Kathua, Samba
Population: Predominantly Hindu with sizeable Muslim and Sikh communities
Jammu is the southernmost part of the Indian-administered region. Known as the “City of Temples,” it is a center of Hindu pilgrimage, particularly to the Vaishno Devi shrine. Politically and culturally, Jammu has often differed from the Kashmir Valley, with distinct demographics and aspirations.
2. Kashmir Valley (Indian-Administered)
Capital: Srinagar (Summer Capital of UT of Jammu and Kashmir)
Major Cities: Srinagar, Baramulla, Anantnag, Pulwama
Population: Predominantly Muslim
The Kashmir Valley is the most densely populated and politically sensitive part of the region. With its breathtaking natural beauty — lakes, gardens, and mountains — Kashmir has long been a symbol of paradise on earth. However, the valley is also the epicenter of the decades-long conflict, marked by militancy, military presence, and demands for autonomy or independence.
3. Ladakh (Indian-Administered)
Capital: Leh and Kargil
Major Districts: Leh (Buddhist-majority), Kargil (Shia Muslim-majority)
Population: Buddhists, Shia Muslims
In 2019, India revoked Article 370 and bifurcated the former state of Jammu and Kashmir into two union territories: Jammu and Kashmir, and Ladakh. Ladakh is unique for its high-altitude deserts and Tibetan-Buddhist culture. It shares borders with China, and recent tensions have brought Ladakh into global focus.
4. Azad Jammu and Kashmir (Pakistani-Administered)
Capital: Muzaffarabad
Major Cities: Rawalakot, Bagh, Kotli, Mirpur
Population: Almost entirely Muslim
Azad Jammu and Kashmir (AJK), often referred to as Azad Kashmir, is a self-governing region under Pakistani control. While it has its own president, prime minister, and legislative assembly, its foreign affairs and defense are managed by Pakistan. AJK is known for its active civil society, political activism, and natural beauty.
5. Gilgit-Baltistan (Pakistani-Administered)
Capital: Gilgit
Major Areas: Skardu, Hunza, Ghizer, Diamer
Population: Ethnically diverse, including Shina, Balti, Burusho, and Wakhi peoples
Gilgit-Baltistan, formerly known as the Northern Areas, is Pakistan’s northernmost territory. Although not formally integrated into Pakistan’s constitution, it is administered as a separate territory. GB has seen significant development in infrastructure due to the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC) and is home to five of the world’s highest peaks, including K2.
A Region Divided, A Heritage Shared
Jammu and Kashmir, despite being fragmented across political boundaries, remain deeply interconnected through shared languages, traditions, and cultural heritage. Whether it’s Kashmiri in the valley, Pahari in the hills of Azad Kashmir, or Balti and Shina in the mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan and Ladakh — the people of these regions share centuries of history, cuisine, music, and ways of life.
Yet, their lived realities are shaped by starkly different political environments. While the geography is continuous, policies, freedoms, and daily experiences diverge across borders.
Key Issues Affecting the Region
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Demands for Autonomy and Self-Determination: The question of political identity remains unresolved. While many advocate for autonomy or independence, such demands are often met with crackdowns and limited democratic space.
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Militarization and Human Rights Concerns: High military presence, especially in Indian-administered Kashmir, has led to allegations of human rights violations, including enforced disappearances, surveillance, and restrictions on movement.
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Freedom of Expression and Controlled Journalism: Journalists often face intimidation, censorship, and arrests. Internet shutdowns, especially in times of political unrest, limit the free flow of information. Press freedom is under pressure on both sides of the Line of Control.
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Cross-Border Tensions: Ceasefire violations and diplomatic standoffs between India and Pakistan continue to affect border communities, disrupt civilian life, and stall peace efforts.
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Tourism Potential vs. Political Instability: With stunning landscapes, spiritual sites, and unique cultures, the region could thrive on tourism. However, instability and insecurity discourage both domestic and international visitors.
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Environmental Vulnerability: Climate change threatens the fragile Himalayan ecosystem. Glacial retreat, deforestation, and erratic weather patterns are affecting agriculture, water availability, and livelihoods across the region.
International Relevance and Geostrategic Importance
Jammu and Kashmir lies at the crossroads of South Asia, Central Asia, and China. It borders three nuclear-armed countries — India, Pakistan, and China — and its stability (or lack thereof) influences regional and global politics. From Indo-China clashes in Ladakh to UN resolutions on Kashmir, the region frequently appears in international forums and human rights discussions.
A Complex Tapestry in Need of Peace
The states of Jammu and Kashmir — Jammu, Kashmir Valley, Ladakh, Azad Kashmir, and Gilgit-Baltistan — are more than just territories on a contested map. They are homes to millions of people whose lives are intertwined with history, politics, and hope. Any lasting solution must center on the voices and aspirations of these people — not just the geopolitical ambitions of states.