Muzaffarabad, Pakistan administrated Kashmir: The Kashmiri pheran—a traditional cloak worn by men and women in the Kashmir Valley—has evolved from being a regional symbol of warmth to a global fashion statement.
In recent years, several Kashmiri traders, particularly women, have played a pivotal role in introducing this timeless garment to international markets. Today, the pheran is not only a common sight in the bazaars of Srinagar but also a growing trend in the fashion capitals of the world.
The global appeal of the pheran has been so significant that December 21, 2023, saw the first-ever international Pheran Day celebrated across different parts of the world. This event marked the garment’s increasing popularity as a cultural and fashion icon.
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With the help of digital technology, the reach of Kashmiri clothing—especially the pheran—has expanded beyond the borders of Kashmir. Many traders in the Valley now receive international orders from the comfort of their homes. This ease of online commerce has made the process of buying and selling Kashmiri garments more streamlined and accessible to a global audience.
A Kashmiri Merchant’s Perspective: The Digital Revolution
Mohammad Mubashir, a Srinagar-based merchant, reveals how the digital marketplace has transformed his business. Originally, he had plans to open a store in Delhi to showcase Kashmiri garments. However, the rise of digital platforms has rendered the traditional brick-and-mortar store obsolete.
He says, “After Srinagar, I was planning to open a store in Delhi to sell Kashmiri garments, but the orders I’m receiving online are coming in huge numbers and much faster than I anticipated. There’s no need for a physical store anymore. Social media has allowed our products to reach a vast audience. The majority of my orders are now coming from overseas, and there’s no risk of bad debts.”
The pheran has also become a symbol of solidarity and cultural expression in politics. Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi donned a pheran during his visit to Srinagar, using it to emphasize the cultural significance of the region. Similarly, former Pakistani Prime Minister Imran Khan wore the pheran as an expression of unity with the Kashmiri people.
Even Congress leader Rahul Gandhi wore the pheran during his “Bharat Jodo Yatra,” symbolizing his connection to the region.
A Historical Tale of the Pheran: Politics, Identity, and Fashion
The pheran’s history is deeply intertwined with Kashmir’s political landscape. Mughal Emperor Akbar, who faced significant resistance from the Kashmiris, is believed to have encouraged the wearing of the pheran among the locals.
The long cloak, he hoped, would slow down their movements, making them less inclined to resist his rule. Despite his strategy, the pherandid not curb the fierce Kashmiri resistance.
In the late 16th century, Akbar managed to deceive the Kashmiri King, Yusuf Shah Chak, into coming to Agra, where he imprisoned him and annexed the Kashmir kingdom. Yusuf Shah Chak died in captivity, while his beloved poetess, Habba Khatoon, wandered the valleys in search of her lost love. This tragic episode in Kashmiri history left Akbar’s conquest as a bitter memory for the region.
Over time, the pheran evolved from being a winter garment to a year-round attire, especially for women. With intricate embroidery, golden thread designs, and floral patterns, it became part of everyday wear for Kashmiri women.
Its association with cold winters also made it a practical choice, especially with the tradition of kangri—a small firepot used to ward off the bitter cold of the region—worn inside the pheran.
The Role of Religion and the Afghan Influence
Historically, the pheran was not only a necessity due to the harsh cold of the region but also tied to religious practices. Scholars from Central Asia, who helped introduce Islam to Kashmir in the 14th century, recommended long cloaks as part of the local attire. Interestingly, similar garments like the Ladakhi choga or the Kashmiri Pandit’s long robe also resemble the pheran in structure and function.
However, during Afghan rule in Kashmir, men were forced to wear the pheran—which was initially a women’s garment. This move was seen as an attempt to undermine the dignity of Kashmiri men by making them adopt feminine attire, a tactic that deeply hurt the region’s pride.
The 1990s: A Symbol of Resistance and Identity
The 1990s saw the pheran take on a new, politically charged significance. During this period of turmoil and conflict, the Indian security forces frequently ordered individuals to remove their pherans during routine searches. The garment became a symbol of resistance, as it was frequently associated with Kashmiri identity and the ongoing struggle for freedom.
In recent years, there have been reports of calls to ban the pheran, especially in light of targeted killings and political tensions in the region. Despite these challenges, the pherancontinues to serve as a cultural and political symbol of Kashmiri identity.
The Globalization of the Pheran: From Kashmir to the World
The pheran has not only seen a resurgence in Kashmir but has also captured the attention of the global fashion community. In 2024, a Kashmiri pheran fashion show in the UK generated significant interest in the garment, leading to an increase in both demand and sales.
This momentum continued in 2025 when a similar fashion show was held in New York, where many fashion enthusiasts and traders attended, showcasing Kashmiri garments to an even broader audience.
Noshin Gujwari, a Kashmiri entrepreneur based in the U.S., played a crucial role in launching the pheran fashion show. She recalls, “After our show in London, a few students from Columbia University advised me to organize a pheran fashion show in the U.S. We saw immense interest from the public at the university, which led us to host a grand event in New York City.
The sales skyrocketed, and more importantly, people began to take an interest in our heritage. American women were particularly drawn to the pheran.”
The Role of Technology in Expanding the Reach of Kashmiri Clothing
While there are many shops in European countries and the Middle East selling Kashmiri clothing, the advent of digital technology has significantly improved the accessibility and efficiency of these transactions. Platforms like Amazon and social media have become powerful tools for marketing and selling Kashmiri garments globally.
One viral video that gained widespread attention showed an Amazon salesman in Kashmir wearing a pheranand riding a horse through the streets of Srinagar to deliver his package. The video captured the beauty of Kashmir wrapped in a white cloak, and in doing so, turned the pheraninto an inadvertent fashion show.
The Future of the Pheran: Fashion, Culture, and Identity
As the pheran continues to gain international recognition, it becomes more than just a garment. It is a symbol of Kashmir’s cultural heritage, resistance, and resilience. With increasing interest from international markets and platforms, the pheran is poised to become a staple in global fashion, blending tradition with modernity in a way that resonates with audiences worldwide.
The pheran‘s growing popularity represents a broader trend of cultural reclamation and celebration, where Kashmiri identity is being embraced and promoted on a global scale. It is not just a piece of clothing but a reminder of Kashmir’s rich history, cultural heritage, and enduring spirit.
